Reaching the charming seaside village of Dunwich/Goompi on North Stradbroke Island — affectionately known as Straddie — may not be the easiest journey, as it involves driving up to Cleveland and then taking a passenger ferry from there, but the unspoiled beauty of this rich island makes any inconvenience seem like just another part of the experience.
Thanks to its millennia-long history — Dunwich is one of Queensland’s oldest settlements — there’s no shortage of culture to absorb in the island, and locals have managed to balance authenticity with tourism by preserving their customs and focusing on sustainability.
The North Stradbroke Island Museum is a great place to start appreciating Dunwich’s ancient roots and intertwined history, as it showcases the rich history shared by Europeans and the Quandamooka people. Learn about the depot for unloading built by convicts in 1827 and its importance to the local economy, the quarantine station established in 1850 for new settlers and its later conversion into the Dunwich Benevolent Asylum in 1865 Queensland’s first dedicated home for the old, infirm or homeless — and, later on, a leper colony.
Dunwich is also rich in arts and culture, with plenty of local studios and galleries to explore, especially along picturesque Junner Street, such as the Salt Water Murris’ Quandamooka Art Gallery, featuring paintings by local Indigenous artists. Quampi — a newly-opened Aboriginal Arts & Cultural Centre, which overlooks iconic Adams Beach is well worth a visit if you’re thirsty to see more contemporary Aboriginal art and learn more about its role in Stradbroke/Minjerribah’s history.
In fact, if you want to fully immerse yourself in the culture, Traditional Owner Matthew Burns leads a guided tour along the shoreline filled with storytelling, interesting facts a traditional spear demonstration and even a didgeridoo performance!
After, unwind and grab a coffee at The Barn Café, a cosy island favourite, or enjoy mouth-watering dishes and sand-filtered beer at Straddie Brewing Co., a three-story brewhouse and taproom with sweeping views of Moreton Bay. If it’s a panorama you’re looking for, scenic waterfront Little Ship Club will scratch your itch, or visit Straddie Market Co. Produce & Pantry for the freshest juices around. Or go all-in on the island lifestyle and grab a takeaway seafood box from local gem Perry’s Seafood, and enjoy it at a nearby park or beach, like stunning Adams Beach or Bradburys Beach, whose bright clear blue rivals that of any Mediterranean landscape.
If it’s later in the day, you can indulge in a curated wine tasting at St Stradbroke Wine Bar, a boutique venue specialising in Australian drops with a coastal twist, with views of the tranquil, kid-friendly Dunwich swimming enclosure. For a sportier time, The North Stradbroke Island Golf Club offers golf enthusiasts a stunning location on the upper slopes of Mt Hargrave.
But on to the main course: nature. Thanks to its many kayaking, snorkelling and cycling opportunities, there are countless way to explore the idyllic scenery of Dunwich. There are plenty of pristine beaches and habitats, with a whopping 450 native animal species — 43 of which are classified as rare or threatened — according to the Department of Environment & Heritage Protection, so you can expect to be treated to koala, kangaroo, echidna, wallaby and bandicoot sightings! The island is also home to an abundance of birds and reptiles.
Not only that, but Dunwich happens to be one of the best spots for land-based whale-watching between June and November! You can even participate in the Straddie Whale Trail, spotting whales breaching off the coast and other native animals, and collecting stickers to commemorate the sightings. But when it comes to marine life, it’s Dunwich’s dolphins that really shine. It’s common to see the playful mammals frolicking in Straddie’s warm waters, so keep an eye out for them.
Whatever else you do, you cannot leave without taking a dip in the majestically unique Brown Lake, so-called because of its brown hue, reminiscent of a tea stain, due to the tannins from surrounding melaleuca and tea-tree bushland. And, if you’re up for a bit of a hike, Myora Springs will mesmerise you with its crystal-clear waters and the views from Mount Vane Summit in Naree Budjong Djara National Park will leave you breathless.
If you have access to a car, you may want to make the trip to nearby beaches like Point Lookout and Cylinder Beach, both within easy reach. The former’s North Gorge Walk is another stellar whale-watching spot, and if you have a good pair of binoculars and a dose of determination, you’re all but guaranteed a humpback sighting!
How to get there
Most visitors arrive to Dunwich via the town’s ferry terminal, reached after a 45-minute ferry ride, which allows both car and passenger transport. We recommend pre-booking your spot on the ferry, especially during peak periods, such as school holidays or whale-watching season.